Coast Life

Don't worry, we're still alive (but barely... I'll explain later). I'm sorry it's been awhile, ever since we left Quito, internet has been harder to find, and our days have been jam-packed, but we decided it was past-time to fill you in on our time on the coast.

We spent our last couple of days in Quito finishing our rock mosaic project for the orphanage. It turned out great, so everyone's nervousness was calmed (especially ours- we didn't want to destroy the monument!). Then, last Tuesday morning, we packed up for our expedition to the coast. We had to say some hard goodbyes to the kiddos and to our friends. It was especially sad saying bye to Andrea, who won't be there when we visit before flying out in December. Then, we once again lugged our huge packs down to the side of the road. Crunched for time to catch the bus to Mindo, we got the taxi driver to speed through the traffic and hopped on the bus at the last second (typical). It was 2 hours to Mindo (a town on the way to the coast) and when we got there we dropped our stuff in a hostel room, with one small bed, right on the river. We immediately headed out for the zip-lining course at the top of a long mountain road. The 10-cable course through the jungle was awesome, and some gorgeous toucans were flying through the trees with us. (We have to do some touristy stuff ya know?) After that, we headed back to the hostel and were playing some Spanish

Scrabble when we met a 23-yr-old traveler from Portland named Sam. We spent the whole night with him, eating our first pizza in forever, and swapping stories. He had been living in Panama working on a forest ecology project for the last year. He was also a biology student, and he and I went on-and-on about different projects and interests; Jenna was having a blast I'm sure. That night, Jenna and I crammed into the tiny bed, covered ourselves with the huge mosquito net, and fell asleep to the sound of the river outside.

The next morning, to start off my last day of being 22 we took some river-showers, said bye to Sam, and hopped on a series of buses to the coast. The trek to the coast was very different; all along the way were tiny villages of shabby houses, lots of palm and banana trees, and more and more darker and taller people,

naturally. We got to the town of Atacames just in time for sunset, and, for the first time in my life, I saw the ocean. To put it lightly, it is the most beautiful thing I've ever seen, and literally the largest birthday present I've ever received. Jenna and I spent the entire next day walking and running the beach, swimming, and rescuing beached blow-fish. I couldn't think of a better way to spend my birthday. Oh, and did I mention we made friends with two awesome Ecuadorian surfers? They met us on the beach and showed us their favorite hang-outs, took us to watch a game of beach soccer, taught us how to salsa, and then spent that night celebrating my birthday with us. Jenna and I ordered a drink called the “Cucaracha” to start off the night. Cucaracha is spanish for cockroach, and it seemed fitting since we found one in our hostel room that day.

Not knowing what to expect, we winced when the bartender brought over a bowl of tequila on fire. We just looked at each other and laughed as the bartender showed us how to put out the flame and put in two straws for us. Weird, but hilarious. Also that night, 3 older Colombian men tried to sing happy birthday to me in broken English, which I wish I could have recorded. The whole night was very fun, and a great way to start off our time on the coast, and of course my 23rd year.

The next day, Jenna and I packed up once more (we've moved camp about 6 times in 7 weeks now- I cannot believe we've been here that long!). We took a motorcycle “ecotaxi” 10 minutes south to the town of Sua, which people told us was a much more chill town. It probably would have been, if it wasn't, very fittingly, the weekend of the town's birthday party. We met two other Ecuadorian surfers, Jonathan and Bernardo from Sua, and spent all last weekend celebrating with them and all the locals (including attending a ceremonial crowning of the “Reina de Sua”= Queen of Sua). This past week, the guys also took us dancing,  gave us some beginner surf lessons, and introduced us to all their friends and family. They are two of the most fun-loving, easy-going people I've ever met. They both have huge, dark, curly hair, and are known

around the town for it. Bernardo lives in a stilted shack in a part of town called the “Mangar” known for its mango trees. When we first went over there, we were introduced to someone who was soon to become one of mine and Jenna's favorite people in the world: a 33-yr-old Englishman named Anthony. He's been living with Bernardo for the past three months learning Spanish and volunteering in Atacames with kids. He is thee funniest person, and doesn't let barely knowing Spanish, or his British accent, get in the way of talking to everyone he sees. The entire town is in love with this guy. His plan was similar to ours: to stay in Sua for a day or two, but we've all fallen victim to the charm of the town and it's people. Anthony now plans to stay for another month until Christmas, and Jenna and I have been living on this gorgeous small stretch of the Pacific coast for over a week now. Us and the 3 boys have been traveling to other beaches nearby to check out the waves and experience the culture. (One afternoon we spent the day at Jonathan's sister's house on an island with sandy roads and cows meandering through yards and ate fried tuna caught that day. Her house consists of 2 small rooms, a kitchen, and a hole-in-the-ground bathroom, and her and her husband and 2 daughters were just the happiest people. Talk about eye-opening.)

Jenna and I already know a lot of people in this cozy town. We have a great hostel staff of three older ladies we call the “abuelitas” (little grandmas) who watch out for us and make sure we come home every night. Our other friends include “Batido-man” (Batido=shake, and we buy from him every day and he gives us life talks about enjoying life while we're young), Bernardo's sweet DJ brother, Paul, who threw the best parties at his beach-side bar for the town celebration, and three other Colombians who fed us free snacks and took us for a ride on a huge floating banana out in the ocean.

Today is Jonathan's 23rd birthday (also fitting) and we decided we'd stay for that, and then pack up and leave on tomorrow morning. Life has been so amazing that we can hardly say goodbye. We've gotten to experience a more real side of Ecuadorian culture off the Gringo-path: we've eaten interesting food every night (like ceviche, guava, shellfish, platanos, shrimp pizza, and a bunch of random fruit the guys pick off the trees to snack on), we've practiced Spanish 24/7 (which has improved exponentially since we've met them), and we've spent quality time getting to know friendly people from every walk of life. Also, you can't beat swimming in the ocean every day, while pelicans fly overhead. These 3 guys already feel like family to us, and coastal life has been the best experience yet.  I think we'll both feel ready to get back to volunteering next week, but for now, I can't imagine being in a place where we would learn more. This is a whole other side of Ecuadorian life, and one that's not in the guidebooks. I think that is where the real adventures develop though. Jenna and I are still keeping our pact to do anything and everything that comes our way. Even if at first it seems random, for example, to go to breakfast at someone's house in the jungle who you just met, you might fall into a lifelong friendship and be thanking God for the experiences He puts in your path.

Health update/Why I say were barely alive (or why I'm barely alive, rather):  First of all, I got pretty sick from something the other day, fish maybe, and was puking all night and slept all day yesterday. The abuelitas asked Jenna what was wrong and they were very worried. They gave Jenna some medicine to give me and

made me an Ecuadorian remedy drink called ojita. How adorable are they? We are not going to be able to leave this place... Also, just when I thought I was getting better, we went for an ocean swim today and I got stung pretty bad on my leg by a jellyfish. Not to mention, I got sand in my eye and haven't been able to wear my contact for the past couple days. I just walk around with one eye squeezed shut all the time; the townspeople probably think I'm half blind.

I also want to say thank you to everyone for all the birthday love this past week, it makes it much easier to be here knowing all the support and prayers I have back home. I know this next year as a 23-yr old is going to be a great one. I miss and love you all very much!!

Loving being a beach bum at the end of November,
Renae